Experience Zurich - Ghost Walk
Ghosts on the loose in Zürich?
Not such an Off the Wall idea as you might think....
7 August 2008
Zürich's a scary place, according to English tour guide and ghost expert Dan Dent.
Well, he was quite scary himself, to be honest.
He made the 26-strong group of ZIWA members, including at least four of their partners, almost jump out of their skin when he boomed out to welcome the ZIWA group by the fountain in Paradeplatz. The Swiss passers-by were astounded by Dan with his skull-headed cane, black bag and the voice of a town crier.
Members of the Off the Wall group were merely intrigued. Dark alleys, haunted houses and shifty bankers hold no fears for them.
First we stood beside the Fraumünster, site of 'passion, death and betrayal', where we innocently passed through the narrow archway which was used to assess tax on wide-hooped dresses, apparently.
We heard the tale of the Ütliberg ghost of a peasant woman who hanged herself from a beech tree after losing her heart, her innocence and her mind to the cruel Duke of Manegg Castle, who set the dogs on his discarded lover. We heard about the battle between church and council, and the dolphin tongue which emerges every half-hour in the direction of the Rathaus. We passed by the Wasserkirche which was the site of the beheading in the third century of patron saints Felix and Regula and their servant Exuperantius, who were martyred for their faith during Roman times. The saints then carried their heads to the site of the Grossmünster.
Look out for the bloodstains next time you are there.
The former Gemusebrücke, since renamed the Rathausbrücke, was the site of a fourteenth century tragedy when the Abbess from the Fraumünster led a procession to the Lindenhof, at the same time as the Provost of the Grossmünster was leading a procession of men. There was a standoff at the Gemusebrücke and both groups crossed the wooden bridge together. The walkway collapsed and 70 people drowned in the high waters. Some vegetables were also lost in the chaos! Voices can still be heard crying at the bridge today, and some people avoid crossing there.
Incidentally the site of the nearby police station was formerly a slaughterhouse, and it incorporates carvings of vegetables and fruit in its façade.
As the evening grew dimmer, we made our procession along by the Limmat to Schipfe, where the local fishing industry was once based, as well as the local prostitutes. Fishing families have lived in this area for some years, but it was in 1930 that a couple with twin daughters had a ghostly experience. One night, they discovered that the girls had wet the bed, although they had no recollection of doing so. The next night, exactly the same thing happened. On the third night, voices were heard in the twins' bedroom but the parents found no one there. The daughter said that she didn't like her 'father's friend' who wore fishing clothes. The following night, the room was found to be soaking wet and no explanation could be found. On the fifth night, there were more screams and one girl was thrown across the room. But the ghostly fisherman could not be seen by the worried father. After that, the family moved out and never set foot there again.
Near the Lindenhof we noted the statue of the women who protected the city of Zürich from the Habsburgs in 1292 while the men were away fighting elsewhere. They used metal pans from the kitchen and successfully defended the hill. Some say that the women actually came from Canton Aargau and wore white socks!
St. Peter's church with its fine clock face owes a debt to Rudolf Brun, a reformer who challenged the council's power and later was elected mayor. He died a painful death in 1360, whether by plague or poisoning was unclear, but his servant found him dead in his bed. In 1970, during the church restoration, his grave was reopened and traces of arsenic were found. His skull had also vanished. Some years later, when a group of boys was playing football, they chased their ball to the grave and saw a man standing by the clock tower, who 'wore old clothes and looked ill'. He turned to face the church wall and then walked straight through it. A plaque marks the site.
Another ghost to be seen by the Katzensee is said to be that of Rudolf Murtili, who got into an argument with the council about ownership of a castle. The council sued him and to avoid paying them, he buried his money near the lake. It has never been found, and his ghost, who wears white and is heralded by a chilly mist, still scares people away from the likely spot. Murtili's ghost is a byword for meanness.
Down to earth then, with supper at the Hiltl vegetarian restaurant.
Another unusual Off the Wall trip - thanks to Brigitte S. and Margaret D., the new chairladies.
Keep reading ZIWA News for details of more hair-raising events.
And look behind you when out on the town after dark - that might be a ghost coming up behind you....
Julia Newton, 21 August 2008
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