Discovering Zürich and Switzerland

We couldn't have asked for a better day when we set off in the company of Swiss French chairlady Anne-Marie to the historic town of Gruyères last month. Our journey took us by fast train to Fribourg, located on the border between the German and French-speaking parts, by bus to Bulle in the French-speaking part and by another regional train to the foot of the historic old city. It was a clear sunny day, the first for months, and the mountain views were spectacular. Whether arriving by train or car, it is still necessary to ascend the steep hill to the small medieval town by steps or footpath, although a local bus does run on occasion - not often enough for us though. The main village street is charming, and if we had had more time we could have paid a visit to the Giger museum, where the works of the Swiss sculptor H.R.Giger are housed; he made the special effects for several science fiction films including the Alien series.

However, the eighteen ZIWA ladies who enjoyed the beautiful day out concentrated their attention on the spectacular castle and museum. First we watched a multimedia presentation with individual headphones tuned to our preferred language. We experienced a dramatic reconstruction of the founding of the castle by the counts of Gruyères in the thirteenth century - they built the castle in the style of the Savoy fortifications; and we learnt about its role in the defence against the city of Bern. We heard how Count Michel had got into debt and the castle was taken over by the Fribourg bailiffs, and how it was later bought by the Bovy family who restored it as their family home in the 20th century.

After that short but impressive history lesson, we met our guide, Margaret Flückiger, who told us the story in more detail and took us around all the rooms of what is now a museum owned by the town. The castle, perched high on a hill, was originally a wooden structure and later a sandstone fortress, with its moat and drawbridge. The end of the fifteenth century was the high point in the life of the Savoy counts and the struggle against the dukes of Burgundy. After perusing the modern external decorations and noting the galleries and frescoes dating from the 19th century, we entered the original medieval guardroom and kitchen built by Louis of Gruyères. Upstairs we saw the famous mourning copes embroidered with the legend of the Golden Fleece. We also noted in several places the crane, which is the town symbol. Some of the upstairs rooms sported coats of arms in original stained glass. After Count Louis died, his cousin Michel inherited but he got into debt and was exiled. The canton took over the running of the property and sold off some of its contents. In 1849 the castle was put up for sale and bought by the Baud-Bovey family who renovated the building as a family residence in the French style with Louis XV furnishings. We saw some 17th century Flemish tapestries which had somehow survived, a canopied bed and some original graffiti on the walls. There were also a number of family portraits on the walls, and we learnt that the French landscape artist Corot stayed and worked here.

After this fascinating insight into the history of Gruyères and its imposing castle, we were all ready to enjoy our traditional Swiss lunch at the aptly-named restaurant Maison des Traditions, where many people shared a delicious cheese fondue in the local style. Then there was time to buy some of the famous Gruyères cheese and other local delicacies before heading down to the station to make the return journey back to Zürich. Everyone felt that they had had a real taste of spring in a wonderful setting. Thanks to Anne-Marie for arranging it all. You can keep up to date with the Discovering Zürich and Switzerland program on the online calendar.