Sunday Group

The Sunday group spent an interesting, fun and informative afternoon in Flaach visiting the Spaltenstein family Spargel (asparagus) farm. The formerly multi-use farmland has been in the family for generations. In 1962, Jakob and Anna Spaltenstein made the decision to focus on asparagus, thus making this the only farm in Switzerland with this single purpose. The Swiss passion for Spargel is evidenced by the seasonal specials featuring this member of the lily family at countless restaurants throughout the country during the mid-April through early June harvest season. Surprisingly, 96% of all Spargel consumed in this country is imported, amounting to an incredible inflow of 11,000 tons. The Spaltenstein family produces around 30 tons a year, 60% to 70% of which is sold in the tiny shop open to the public on their farm.

Possibly the most shocking statistic of the day was the cost of asparagus seeds - CHF 10,000 for one kilo. The Spargel farmers do not actually plant the seeds, though. They buy a root bunch, referred to as a crown, for a mere 40 Rappen per root bundle. All crowns are imported, largely from Holland. Eight to nine plants will grow from one crown. There is no production the first year. The sprouts are left to grow into 5 to 6 feathery bushes per crown the first year in order to strengthen the plant for future production. By September, the young plants have reached full height and die back sending their nutrients back into the crown. Only when the plants are dry and twig-like are they mulched and left to rest for the winter. In year two, the farmers may begin harvesting. Each crown can be expected to produce Spargel for 8 to 10 years. At that point in time, the soil is depleted of nutrients and is retired to another crop, such as potatoes, for the next 10 years. The Spaltenstein family swaps land every 10 years with a potato farmer which allows them to continue their single crop policy.

White Spargel constitutes the majority of asparagus raised on this farm. Surprising to many on the tour was the fact that white and green asparagus are the same variety. The difference is in how the plant is raised. White Spargel is grown entirely under the soil and never exposed to sunlight while green Spargel grows above ground and gets its color from photosynthesis. Crowns intended for white Spargel production are buried about 25 centimeters below the surface in long rows of domed earth. Each row is then covered with black plastic. The plastic absorbs the sun and heats the ground to the 10 degrees Celsius, ideal for growth. Under these conditions, asparagus can grow 10 centimeters in 24 hours. Moisture is trapped so the crops never require watering and weeds cannot grow in the dark so no poisons are used. The plastic sheeting is pulled back every day and, once a white tip appears above ground, the earth around each stalk is gently brushed aside and a cut is made above the crown so as not to damage it and hinder further production. The crown is re-covered with soil and the plastic covering is replaced.

The delicate, freshly harvested white Spargel is then placed, one-by-one, into a machine that washes them and cuts them to the ideal length is 22 centimeters. They are plunged into water for about 40 minutes to shock them so the pores close and moisture will be retained. Each stalk is then fed individually into a peeling machine and manually inspected and missed spots removed when it comes out of the other end. White Spargel has a thick skin that develops to protect it underground and must always be peeled before preparation and eating. Green, and the more rare violet variety, crowns are planted close to the surface and stalks are cut when they reached the desired height above ground. Unlike in the United States and Asian countries, Swiss prefer thick stalks. Most expensive and desired are those reaching a thickness of up to 38 milimeters in diameter. Violet asparagus should be eaten raw.

After loading cars with purchases of farm fresh violet, green and white asparagus, the group drove to Restaurant Sternen to enjoy a wonderful meal featuring the Flaach Spargel.

www.spargel.ch
www.sternen-flaach.ch