Discovering Zurich and Switzerland

Twenty members of the Discovering Zürich and Switzerland group enjoyed a sunny afternoon visit to the town of Chur last month. And more were disappointed that the lunch and guided tour were booked up early on. Many of us have passed through the old city by train or car on the way to the beautiful Graubünden mountain resorts but had not thought of stopping to explore the place. This omission was rectified with this fascinating visit.

Our guide for the afternoon, Thesi Ling, turned out to be one of the best we have had, being both informative and amusing. First, though, we enjoyed lunch in the chic Restaurant Controversa just outside the old pedestrian city centre. Then our guide led us through the old cobbled streets of the cantonal capital where Switzerland's fourth language, Romansch, is spoken. We discovered that the city dates back to 11,000 BC, a civilization only recently uncovered by archaeological exploration carried out by the University of Zürich. Roman remains have long been in evidence in the city, however.

Chur was home to the portrait artist Angelica Kauffmann whose family home in the Reichsgasse near the Rathaus dates back to 1741. On an opposite wall at number 64 we saw an old iron 'shoe measure' of 30 centimeters. We heard that the Reformation was brought to Chur by local preacher Johannes Dorfmann, who spoke at the church of St. Martin, which dominates the town square. This church boasts the second largest clock face in Switzerland after St. Peter's in Zürich. Inside the Gothic church we admired the windows by Augusto Giacometti and the font of Bad Ragaz marble. Outside we also noted the distinctive grey stone or scelera which is a feature of many local houses and fountains.

Chur boast many small shops in its narrow streets and we admired the window display of the local butcher or Metzgerei where Bündnerfleisch is a speciality. Other local foods include capuns, a vegetable dish wrapped in leaves, and maluns, a stodgy dish made from potatoes and flour which was popular during the hard winter days. Many of the old houses in the streets behind the Obere Gasse backing on to the River Plessur featured oriel windows and pulleys to bring goods up to the upper floors. We also noticed many old shop signs such as the tailor's scissors.

The Roman Catholic cathedral is reached by steps up through the gate tower to the Hof, a spacious square at 630 metres above sea level. It is built in the late Romanesque style and was completed in 1272. Unfortunately it was closed for a service on the afternoon we visited, so a return visit might be in order to see the old choirstalls and the crypt. Nearby was the old bishop's palace dating back to the sixth century although remodeled more recently. The Hof and the cemetery behind the cathedral are wonderful vantage points to admire the views of the formidable mountains which surround the city of Chur. Our final stop was at the Rathaus which houses a model of the city. It is believed that Chur takes its name from a Roman tribe, the Cura, and has always been an important strategic location.

Many people on this visit to the charming city expressed a wish to return soon to explore at leisure.

By Julia Newton, 22 November 2009

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